huge filler pannel and some red paint :kiki:

 

sounds like your gonna have to trace wiring from the fuse to the switch....corrosion on the fuse doesn't sound good...Run a continuity check using your multimeter from the switch side of the fuse to the switch itself.......if you have continuity try the wiggle test on the wiring to see if it breaks.....also you might wanna look at the underside of the fuse block for signs of green monster (corrosion)......

 

You're right, it's only one wire coming from the fuse box to the sunroof...I check every connection along its path and there's no corrosion or anything....When I said corrosion I meant VERY little on the fuse prongs...thats all....no where else.

I'm wondering if it's the cab ground....

 

From the incomplete wiring diagram that I have it looks like a direct line from the fuse to the switch with only 1 connector in between (not including the fuseblock connector)

 

You know where it is?

 

Hold one!

 

Try this grounding point!

This was the same body ground distribution block that fucked with everything in Paul's truck!

Also referance Page 1 in this thread!
http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-.../forum/how-interior/6401-how-hvac-fan-motor-resistor-connector-replacement.html

 

I'll do that when I get home...I was looking at the schematic...and It's only that one grounf for the switch...it seems to be a simple circuit.

 

The grounding of these trucks and BCM is one fuckin wierd system.

Paul was having issue with everything from his stereo to his gauge cluster bc of that one grounding point under the hood Chris. I'm sure some how the sunroof is running through the BCM. I hope that fixing that one ground fixes the issue(s)

 

ALways wondered where that ground was.

 

Yeah standing in front of the truck its to the left over the inner wheel well, in front of the intake!

 

For sure Jeremy, I'll be sure to update you guys and let you know....My under dash LEDs have been blinking all crazy when I open my doors lately also...

I have my stock battery still in also, I'm sure it's about ready for a new one.

 

at least your trucks are better than the bonneville, lesaber, etc. those had common grounds too. near the door jambs on the floor board so nice salty wet snow boots corrode them. come on GM pull your heads out your ass and do it right.

one easy thing to do is a run of wire straight to the battery to test ground. also sounds stupid but is their primer or paint on the grounding point that is usually the culprit right there

 

It is painted where the switch is grounded, Haven't got around to cleaning up that ground...but I'll just do both tonight.

I wanna get this done and show off my new mod

 

And I'm sure you were going to do it, but after you clean up those contacts...add some of that dielectric grease shit!

 

Yeah I want to get back to finish up my rear suspension project that I never finished while back!

 

Let me know when, I have almost everything to go down another 1"+ on my truck...I'm sure we could knock out 2 in 1 day

 

What works the roof?? Or the LED in the switch....what are your multimeter readings at the
switch? And where are you putting the ground lead for the multimeter??

Just trying to help...

 

The sunroof circuit is just common power, common ground and a 2 direction motor...thats all...I'm getting no voltage at the switch...but 12v across the fuse...I'm using the same ground as the switch for my meter.

I also tried different areas, and tried scraping the paint away with the test lead for the ground and still got nothing.

I appreciate the help man...I used to be an electronic tech and did all kinds of work on electronics, and now I draft/design electrical work, so I know what you mean.

 

Think of the power and ground as 2 separate circuits.....

 

So problem is in the power circuit between the fuse and the switch...you ARE testing on the battery side of the switch?!? I'm not tryin to be a smartass.....everyone has there days....including me...

Also to confirm you could run a test lead between the ground and the Negative terminal of the battery...at least that way you know the ground is ok....

 

lol, yea I have my days also, but yes it's the power side...I can literally see the ground for the switch right in front of the sunroof motor. Plus the wires are red and blck, so thats a plus :lol:

I'm going to try the test lead deal tonight....I'll leave the power wire and ground to the battery and see what I get.

You could run a new power wire to the switch/fuse is you want a quick fix...personally I like cleaner/professional way of tracing and fixing the original wiring....but I again have had my days...:ugh:

Yea, I'd like to figure out why it's not working, especially if it's cause for concern.

Thanks for your help and brainstorming! :thumbup:

 

You could run a new power wire to the switch/fuse is you want a quick fix...personally I like cleaner/professional way of tracing and fixing the original wiring....but I again have had my days...:ugh:

 

no prob man....good luck....I wish mine had a sunroof...

I'm down for updates though...opc:

 

definately will keep this thread updated

 

Alright, here is the deal. Poor dc connections are a pain to find.
A test light requires power to light the lamp, a meter has a very low power requirement. I have been bit before assuming a dc circuit had power after seeing the voltage on a multimeter only to find the voltage disappeared when a load was applied.. So a test light is best in thus instance.

Two options here. Disconnect both wires to motor and remove fuse then measure resistance to the source wire ie ground location and + power location.

Other option temporarily run a jumper wire from negative of the battery to where the ground is for the motor and see if that fixes it.

Here is what I don't understand. How are you reversing the window? Typically on a dc motor the polarity to the motor is swapped to reverse the rotation via a switch so the negative would feed a pin on the switch and not direct to the motor.

If that's the case then negative of battery would go to the switch. Pm me for my cell if you need additional explanation or help trouble shooting.

 

Check out the wiring diagram on sunroofs for clarification...but yes, its reversed polarity...its a very simple switch...with the ground "bar" on top and 12v on bottom.

When the button is pushed theres a metal bar that hits the positive and in turn drives the motor that cooresponding(sp?) way...and vice-versa.

I'm just stumped to why the power is intermittant...I'll def. try the test lead.

The power is also run through the RAP relay, I will mess with that also.

 

Good deal then swap the suspect ground with a lead direct from the negative of the battery to confirm if it's the grounding circuit that's intermittent. When you tried the battery trick was that at the switch or direct on the motor?

If you disconnect wires upstream of the switch and replace with a separate bat that would eliminate an intermittent switch.

Keep us posted. It can run but it can't hide

 

Helll, gregs on it so I'll back out. Pm me if ya need the cell number

 

Didn't get to work on it last night...most likely tonight...my girlfriends family is in town for a reunion this weekend so this week is going to be crazy.

Thanks for everyone's help so far!

 

Even if you can't figure it out, at least youll still have a glass hole in your roof to let the sun in...

 

It's been that way since April :lol:

 

Yep, I'd call that slackin.

I can't have problems with my truck. Shit won't let me sleep at night.

Course if my truck was red I could probably leave it alone.:lmaop:

 

Well your set Darek bc urs is black!

 

all hope is lost.

 

It's never lost...

Honetly, I'm just never home...during the week I stay at my girls house...on the weekends I'm drunk...not much time for anythign else

Hell, my s-10 has been in pieces for years