Well I can sense some irritation in your tone and post :hide:

For your situational awareness......... 90+% of the members here are not big fans of dealers and are more inclined to figure the issue out and fix.

As for the codes, you can either do a search for them here. OR patiently wait while one of us has the time to look them up and help you diagnose your shit-uation you have.

The D10 would make for a great video......but bad for resale.

Hold tight and let the Nation do what it does

BTW...... Has the Timing chain and tensioners ever been changed........with everything you have changed......I'm thinking you have a way the fuck out of wack timing issue that the PCM can not correct for with cam phasing

 

Well a fellow member made a video on your P0315 issue

 

P0036 /P0135 /P0141 All codes are for the O2 sensors......... If you have never changed them, change both and be done. This code will reset by disconnecting the NEG battery terminal

O2 sensors should be done every 100,000 to maintain proper operation and efficiency..... any tech worth a shit would agree

Should be able to get both sensor for about $100, go with either OEM AC Delco or Denso

 

Well last topic P2101................... not a fueling issue

Its the stupid common, Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance.

Quote from one of the online manuals, "P2101 occurs when: The difference between the predicted throttle position and the actual throttle position is more than a calibrated amount. Action Taken When the DTC Sets"

Easy fix is a new Throttle body

 

I've posted my opinion before, that the O2 sensor really needs to be replaced at 50K.
I'll admit to being ignorant, this is only my opinion.

An experienced mechanic told me this as I was becoming dissatisfied with the smoothness and drive-ability of my '05 with the 3.5L. It ran OK, but idle was off and the acceleration smoothness and authority just wasn't there anymore.

Replacing one O2 sensor made a difference.

At the time though I was away from home and time was limited. The local parts vendor only had one sensor in stock so I did the front sensor only at the time, intending to replace the rear sensor in the next few days.
Stuff happened and I didn't get around to it. Months later I replaced the rear sensor also and it made an even bigger improvement. Idle smoothness came back to original and acceleration was back to near-new.

Given how on a crew-cab (heaviest of the three) the 3.5L really wants another gear (on an auto), that gap between 3rd and O.D. was getting a little ugly... not terribly so, but it was more noticeable. Replacing both O2 sensors cleaned it up nicely and put me back to like-new.

The way an O2 sensors works, the tiny signal it returns can degrade very very gradually. At idle and on heavy acceleration is where you feel it most.


For myself, I'll pop-in a new O2 by at least 60k.
At $100 for the pair, it's just how much I love my I-5.

 

Grab yourself an adult beverage and take a chair, because what you are about to hear may trigger you, and I can't have that in my already delicate conscious state.
*TRIGGER WARNING!*

Hi, my name's Dennis and am the original owner of a 2008 GMC Canyon. It has 213k miles on it's 2.9l engine and still run the original factory water pump with original Factory Oxy sensors. No CELs.

To assist with the recovery of some of the more sensitive members of 355Nation, I have acquired a header and will replace the oxygen sensors with brand new ones this Saturday.


I hope that wasn't too disturbing.... Suicide Hotline number is 1-800-273-8255

 

As has been mentioned DTCs P0036, P0135 and P0141 are related to the O2 Sensor Heaters. Both O2 Sensor Heaters are powered from the same fuse so it might be a good idea to start at the O2 Sensor Fuse, #79.

1BadI5 mentioned DTC P2101 "Throttle Actuator Position Performance". When that DTC sets, the PCM causes the Throttle Control System to go to Reduced Power Mode. In some cases the Reduced Power Mode will shut down the engine. Maybe check the Throttle Body connections.

DTC P0315: "Crankshaft Position (CKP) System Variation Not Learned" Did you have the Variation Relearn accomplished after replacing the Crankshaft Position Sensor? It either has to be done at a Dealer or by someone with an applicable scan tool.

 

^^ For the Crank relearn you need a GM Tech 2 as shown in the video link I posted above

 

I think you read something into my post that just ain't there...
(if I'm getting your meaning here)

An O2 sensor can go way beyond 100K (most manufacturer's recommended replacement interval with the current technology ). What I described is a gradual decay of accuracy.
And when that accuracy begins to be degraded (at around 50k), it doesn't set a CEL, and doesn't cause a reliability problem. It just degrades performance and fuel mileage, if only slightly.
And because of the nature of how the O2 signal is used to calculate the fuel mixture, that degradation of the measurement accuracy shows up first at idle (especially with an idle-challenged engine like the I-5 ) and at wide-throttle acceleration smoothness, what we generally refer to as "drive-ability ".

In that way it's like plugs. I run the best iridium plugs I can buy, and the OE recommendation is to change at 100K. If I try it at 75k and I can feel a difference, even a small improvement in smoothness and driveability then I'll change them at about 75K. Can I get 100k or even 150 or 200K from a set of good plugs? Sure, but I'll take whatever fees good instead.


Run your O2 sensors out to 300k or even more if that makes you happy.

I know what results I got in the circumstances I described, so at ~$100 I'll replace mine at about 50K.... just because I can, and because I value having the best performance I can get, maintaining as close to like-new as I can get for as long as I can get it.

Do whatever works for you and drive happy.

.

 

Very eloquent post in a Southern Fuck You manner that boils down to:

.

I get it. In my defense, I've never held on to a vehicle long enough to get to recommended service intervals, so unless it throws a code - Life is Good.
Nag was my very first new vehicle purchase and I plan to keep her forever to see how long she'll go and validate my maintenance methods. I do plugs every 50k or so, oil every 3000 (or I get itchy), everything synthetic etc.
As soon as I finish this post, I'm going outside and install my new header and (get this) brand new Denso O2 sensors.
Tomorrow, she gets cleaned/waxed - we're doing an emergency midnight run road trip to Tallahassee/Gulf Saturday night to catch the sunrise over the Gulf and purchase bucket seats from a Nation member down there.
SO, I shall be able to tell you Nag's response to having new O2 sensors after 213k miles on the factory sensors.
Synchronicity... Beautiful.
:355group:

 

I replaced mine at a 100k......... BUT

Remember, time by itself is time. All items age and will need to be replaced with time.

Yes, will a O2 sensor last past 100k, certainly, but the performance of the sensor will degrade over time. In this members case, he has total sensor failure...... replace them both and be done. Fuck the only tool you need is a 22mm wrench or if your fancy you have an O2 sensor socket.

I think we have beat the topic to death. I think its funny the OP was so pissed off with his issue......we diagnosed his codes in less then 24 hours and he hasn't chimed in yet

 

We had a faster diagnostic time then a damn shop and it was free.

Shit I need to start charging for these services :kiki:

 

The OP certainly appears to have an O2 Sensor issue, although the codes only relate to the heater circuits. However, I don't think his engine starting/running issue is related to the O2 sensors. They only affect engine operation when it is in closed loop. The P2101 DTC may be a clue. Reading from his first post,back in 2016, he could have started out with a PassLock problem.

 

jessiecrist i wrote a F@*king hours worth of a story in responding back to yall and when i hit send it said i wasn't loged in and erased all of it. WTF anyhow thanx for ur help and info ill get both o2 sensers and a new TB and get back to yall asap