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Truck will not crank!!!

22K views 26 replies 9 participants last post by  unicknn  
#1 ·
So I just bought this truck yesterday in Phoenix, Arizona and drove it home to Las Vegas. I get it park in my driveway and go to start it again and it will not even crank. When I turn the key I get 1 click out of it and all power goes out after and no more responses at all with turned off the key. Waited a few minutes turn the key to the on position, hear fuel pump kick on turn to start and still nothing at all. This truck is bagged and the switches work, air compressor works, and fuel pump kicks on but no dash lights or anything else. Any help will be greatly appreciated
 
#2 ·
Have the battery load tested before doing anything else... :welcome2:
 
#4 ·
So I took the battery to get checked. They said it was low so they'd charge it for a hour. Came back and they tested it and it came back a good battery. Put it back in truck started right up. Then drove truck to test alternator and they say it was good but gave "low output" but providing 13.21 volts.So now today drove a bit around and as I'm on my way home I lose everything on the gauge cluster. All lights on no reading on any gauges and getting " brake abs fault" "low fuel " notifications. Truck still ran fine radio worked, turn signals worked, just no indications in the cluster. Get home parked and now truck won't start again.
 
#9 ·
If it was the ignition (passlock) it wouldn't crank but wait like 10 mins than it would most likely crank then. I have that problem it doesn't do it often but when it wont crank I just hang out for 10 mins then cranks right up and with the passlock it would still turn over. Sounds to me like your alts not putting out enough. Really 14 while running is good. 13 is a little low. If your battery isn't charging good and your driving around and gauges stop working I wouldn't think ignition. The other thing could be a bad ground. I kept having problems with my blower motor till the guys on here pointed me to grounds. That's my $0.02 lol
 
#10 ·
I've heard a little bit about ignition switches going bad too...but I agree if things are working erratically while in operation the ignition switch is probably not the case.

Passlock at least allows you to crank so that's basically ruled out since you said it won't crank.

Since they tested the alternator and it tested poorly I'd lean towards that for now. I don't remember if a load test will test a bad cell in a battery. A bad cell will take a charge, show it's charged but it won't hold a charge. I don't know if that would be a place to start or if the symptoms you talk about would be caused by a bad cell.

Do you know how old the battery is?
 
#11 ·
08Canyon;2490642 Since they tested the alternator and it tested poorly I'd lean towards that for now. I don't remember if a load test will test a bad cell in a battery. A bad cell will take a charge said:
Yeah a load test would well should show a bad cell. I know when I load test them the tester will say its a low charge to recharge and test again but the second test will show the same results that its a low charge meaning a bad cell. If the alternator is putting enough out it wont take long to kill a cell in a battery either.
 
#12 ·
That cluster going down and the ABS fault sounds to me like a bad ground. I get the ABS one from time to time, Im bagged and its definitely a ground issue. Check the ground packs and make sure they are clean and tight.
 
#13 ·
Check your ground on the firewall. Try the big 3 upgrades. Check the serp belt for slippage.
 
#14 ·
I just had the same issue loosing the cluster. It was a bad ground on the splice box. There is one on the drivers and passenger side inner fender in the engine bay. I would check them.

Passlock will display a flashing lock on the cluster and the truck will not crank. If it's not flashing pass lock is not the issue.
 
#16 ·
I appreciate all the comments and definitely will look at the grounding issue then first before replacing battery or alternator. When I bought the truck it had a red top Optima battery but do not know how old it is doesn't look very old at all. Now since I just bought this truck and not to familiar with it, what particular and locations of these grounding points do I need to check besides the inner fenders in the engine bay on the driver and passenger side as stated above?
 
#17 ·
those are the only 2 that I know of. Mine LOOK ok but sometimes my AC wont work and Ill open the hood and wiggle the passenger side one and it kicks back on. This is after I went through and leaned the contacts bolted it together with loctite and then sprayed over it with liquid tape. Sometimes those packs just go bad. When I get a chance Im gonna just cut them off and put terminals on them and bolt it to the same spot.
 
#19 ·
No I dont have any pics and chances are they arent in the stock location anyway. I had to move mine. Just look for a small black box with black wires going into it by where the wheel wells used to be lol.

I googled and found this picture which shows kindof what the things look like. I wouldnt expect yours to be in the same spot this one is in but it gives you something to look for.

Image
 
#20 ·
And so you can also see what I'm having to deal with since you also have a bagged truck, the shop that bagged the truck C notched the frame in the engine compartment and raised the engine now causing it to rest up against the firewall when I decelerate. here's some pics so you can see. So with them rearranged in the engine bay so it can fit Ill have to really look for these ground packs
 

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#25 ·
Ok well I opened it up in an incognito window and I can see the pics. The one Im havinf problems with is on the left hand side by the intake. Look around there and see if you find it.

If not take some close up pictures so we can get a look and maybe figure out whats going on