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Wheel spacers

18K views 46 replies 6 participants last post by  Caseysmithers  
#1 ·
Is anyone running them? And if so what are some good brands with a decent price?
 
#2 · (Edited)
Lots of guys run wheel spacers! I don't remember a certain brand but they should all be relatively fine. I think it's the hub centric ones you want to stay away from.

Just remember, when you put wheel spacers on, you'll most likely rub on other spot of your truck

EDIT: The hub centric ones are the ones you want
 
#4 ·
The back, inside of the fender (This is where it's rubbed for me anyways) and the plastic bumper lip. I just removed my bumper lip though so it didn't rub there for me.

After I cranked my TB 3 inches, my tires would rub on full tilt left and right so I bought 1.5 inch wheel spacers for it. Then it started to rub again where I told you it rubbed. So now the wheel spacers are sitting in the garage til I lift it higher.

One thing leads to another my friend
 
#5 ·
The hub centric ones are the ones you want, less chance of vibration and most people will say to go with Motorsport technologies spacers.
 
#7 ·
The tire is only 10.5 wide at most, The backspacing on the rim is the only thing im worried about. My last truck had no fender at all, had to cut them all out to clear the 24's. I just dont want to hack up another daily driver... lol Any other good brands that I could choose from? Im also thinking of getting the spacers so I dont have to get the tahoe wheels bored, what size spacer to not have to bore rim?
 
#8 · (Edited)
I don't remember if in your other thread from yesterday about this that you specified a tire size.

What size tire do you plan to run? Yes the spacers on a 5.9" backspace will clear the swaybar. But if you are running a wide tire, it may catch the bumper valance or the inner fender area on the back of the wheel. If the tire is tall, it may rub the body mount. If the tire isn't too large then you should clear. Does that wheel option come in a more appropriate backspace, or do you already own the wheels? As per your other thread, 4.5" is usually minimum for a larger tire if you are on a Z71. So you will need at least a 1" spacer. See my signature for my wheel specs, I don't rub.

Edit:
You answered immediately before me. haha A 1" minimum spacer for your 265 tire should be sufficient to not rub. Plus it won't poke it too far out either. 4.5" pokes a little, 4" pokes a lot. In both cases, it's less noticeable on a Z71. Sorry, I can't help you on the Tahoe wheel question.
 
#9 ·
Haha So if I get a 1.25 or 1.5 spacer I shouldnt have to bore out the Tahoe rim to 101mm? I havent bought the wheels yet, but Im am for sure getting tahoe 20's. Either going to run a 265/50 or a 285/50. Most likely the 265. The tire will either be a Falken Ziex stz, or a terra grappler. Sorry for spamming you guys forum with these questions. Im just NOT used to the whole lift and big tires thing, I honestly dont know too much about it. Ive always slammed or bagged trucks on baby moons or big wheels lol. This is like a diff world.
 
#10 ·
Oh, so the 5.9 is the Tahoe spec. Got it. Like mentioned the other day, the 265 is probably a better option.

In my opinion, if you are going to run a truck tire (AKA A/T tread), don't get a low-pro tire because they don't look good. It looks to me like a tall, pretty wheel with an off road tire that isn't necessary. Plus a low pro tire like a 50 series will ride more stiff and there isn't much sidewall flex for off road use. If there is no off road use, then why run an A/T tire. Again, all just my opinion.
 
#12 ·
Yes I am calling a 50 series low. On a truck and 20" wheels, they are low.

My F-150 had 50 series on a 20 wheel. To me it looked like thing rubber around the big shiny wheel in a huge fender gap.

I know, it's just my opinion though. Not saying you can't do it.
 
#18 · (Edited)
First thing to keep in mind is these trucks are smaller than your f150, so they need less side wall to look proportionate.

You are aware that the series of the tire is an aspect ratio in relation to the width, right? On a 50 series tire as wide as say a 275 or 285 the side wall will be about 5.6 inches, where as on a tire as narrow as a 195 or 205 the side wall will be bout 3 inches. So just because a tire is a 50 series and people's opinions of what is low profile is, doesn't necessarily make it a low profile tire. The stock 225/75r15's that came on my truck had about a 6.6" side wall, not considered a low pro. The side wall on a 285/50 would be just about 1" shorter than the stock tire side wall, just on a bigger wheel. The 265/50 would have about a 5.25" side wall, just 1.5" shorter side wall than my stocks. The 33x12.50x20's I'm running now have about a 6.5" side wall, now is the side wall on my 33's shorter than the side wall on a 33x12.50x15? Yes, but I still wouldn't consider it low pro. Now with all of that being said, and with his truck being newer than '09 his truck came with 16's and I don't know his stock tire size, it may have .5" smaller side wall than mine from the factory.
 
#17 ·
I have 2in and 2.5 in spacers on my S10 and drive the wheels off it.. all the time.. they have been on there a long time and not one problem..

just buy quality shit. get hubcentric. use loctite and torq to specified specs..
 
#15 ·
Get hub centric spacers and make sure the lugs are torqued properly. Check and re-torque every oil change(3000-5000mi) and you should be fine

Sent from my LG-P999 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
#16 ·
Oh yeah, I have a horror story, I took 8 hours to remove them from my old hardbody, had two studs start spinning in the aluminum and had to drill them out. I know a lot of people have never had problems, but I will NEVER use them again. I paid around $500 for them and when I called about the warranty they told me "no", they said if that happened, it was because I used an impact on them. I was 18 at the time and didn't even own an air compressor, non the less air tools at the time. They were install with a torque wrench, I even put a dab of grease on the studs to keep the lugs from possibly freezing up.
 
#20 · (Edited)
So his tire has about a 5.9" sidewall and a 265/50 would have about 5.2" side wall, I personally would not consider that a low pro on a truck the size of ours. Now is that saying it'll look like a big off road tire, no.
 
#21 ·
Now Cuzican, Im going to ask you this because you have the wheels im getting. What size spacer do I need to not have to bore out the Tahoe rim? Or will I still need to bore the rim to fit the spacer since the spacers bore has to be big enough to fit my hub?
 
#24 ·
haha, it's all about overall diameter when all said and done. Any sidewall proportion will work so long as the diameter works.

265/50-20 is only 9.2% larger so you won't be to badly taxed if you stay near that diameter. As well as you can calculate your speeds knowing the percentage of change too.
 
#23 ·
Oh yeah, I know all about those calculations. As a matter off fact, my Ford had 305/50-20. Still looked thin. haha

I know, it's all personal opinion. My Ford was stock height too. The tire on that truck was only ~1/4" larger diameter than what I have today. Admittedly, the rear looked worse than the front, but even still the front didn't look very appealing to me.

No biggie, we all like something different than the other.
 
#26 · (Edited)
That would be 14.5% increase.

You need a tune. The shift points are going to be wacked up!

What engine do you have again? I reread one of your posts saying you have coil springs. So the 2wd drive you have mostly likely has 3.42 gears in the rear end. That is a relatively high gear ratio for a 32" tire. I mean in some cases it's fine, but your computer is programmed to a much much smaller tire. Without a tune you're going to be sucking gas like nobody's business. And it will definitely feel like it won't get out of its own way.

That is true for both tires, but less true for the first option of 30.4 tall.

If you drive a 4-cylinder, you might want to consider not looking at Tahoe rims because your tire size keeps creeping up. LOL

Your tire will be marginally larger than mine and I had stock 28.8" tires, about an inch taller than yours and my mileage is dropped significantly and shift points are sort of dramatic with about a 10% tire increase.

I'm not telling you not to get the setup, just remind you of some of the results of the larger tire.
 
#27 ·
.5" will be thick enough to clear the hub without boring. Keep in mind with .5" thick spacers, you'll want to get extended thread lugs to get back the lug to stud engagement you loose with the spacers.
 
#28 · (Edited)
I was going to get a 1.25 spacer, the kind that have the lugs on them. But would the spacer be the same hub bore are my truck is now(101) so the rim would still have to be bored? Like the picture, the spacer would bolt onto the hub, then the wheel would bolt onto the spacer. But the hub bore would have to be the same as my 101 hub. Then the rim would sit on the lip on the spacer but the lip is proll a 101 or bigger, so the rim would still have to be bored? Im getting spacers so I can pull my wheel out some since it had such a large backspacing. Not so I dont have to bore my rim, it would just be a plus if I didnt have to bore the rim.
 

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