My first thought is the quality of the new shoe. I've had a lesser performing brake after swapping (even pads) with certain brands. The last two vehicles I've done brakes with were Raybestos semi-metallic and they didn't work well. I did the rears of my Canyon with Napa shoes/drums and didn't see a loss in performance. If they worked well before the job I'd fist think it was the material.

Maybe your hammer wasn't big enough, or maybe it's because everything you touch breaks. Just sayin'.

 

Thanks for the input. The hammer was just big enough to get the old drums off btw


I normally put napa brakes on my vehicles, but I'm strapped for cash and didn't feel their "economy" line would suffice. They wanted $80 for their shoes, but obviously you get what you pay for.

If it is in fact the shoes, looks like I may be switching them out when I start working again.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

 

See what others have to say before you swap the parts out. Maybe go back and double (triple) check your adjusters now that they have miles on them. Could be material, but could be adjustment as well.

 

I also used the same parts......Duralast drums and shoes.

I adjusted the shoes by driving in reverse and brake slow and smooth; this is what I did.

Also, most rear drums have a port on the back where you pop the seal out and you can manually adjust them........I just can't remember if the 355 have that port.

 

Duralast shoes are non asbestos organics. They are not metallic or ceramic. They are known for glazing quickly, especially on new drums. Usually the fix is some 150 grit sand paper, sand the shoes lightly, and then sand the drums really well. Roughing up both surfaces allows for better mating and performance. Best fix I have for these shoes and drums. I worked for the Zone for the past year and this is a known problem they have with there shoes.

 

^^ Thats why you buy parts from Advance Auto Parts :kiki: :lol: Just kidding gotta give you some hell Ashley. I needa do my brakes soon as they are starting to make a lil noise

 

^^ the good ole sandpaper trick!

 

I noticed the autozone drums had some ridges on the mating surface, maybe in an attempt to cut down on the glazing? Either way, I'll pull the drums when I get home around mid December and check out what's going on.

And yes, the colorados do have that inspection hole


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

 

With every new set of rotors/drums and pads, you should give your vechicle 200-250 miles of easy driving to properly seat the pads to the rotors. Do not take the vehicle up to 60 mph and jam on the brakes before the first 200-250 mile break in period is overs, or you will glaze the pads and rotors.

Tirerack has a good article on the subject...
Brake Tech - Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedures

 

It is the shoes that get glazed, not the drums, correct?


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

 

shoes!

 

yes, the shoes get glazed. Roughing the surfaces helps to prevent this.

 

Did you adjust them properly? With self-adjusting drums, you need to drive in reverse up to about 10 mph, then slowly apply the brakes, adding more pedal pressure progressively until the truck is stopped. Repeat 3-4 times. If you did that, then the above info about glazing and the sandpaper fix applies.

 

I did roughly 6-8 slow speed stops in reverse. Never got close to 10mph. I was trying to figure out how the adjusters worked, but it eludes me lol.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

 

You're probably good.

Here's a really good explanation:

Drum Brake Self Adjusters: Understanding These Ancient Devices: Brake and Front End

 

One of the my adjusters teeth were a bit scarred up from me using a screwdriver to release the shoes. I wonder if that's going to be an issue. I bought a new hardware kit, but it didn't come with new adjusters.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

 

Rockauto has the adjusters they sell them seperatly I think there 18 bucks

 

Bedding in the brakes really depends on what the manufacturer calls for.

Some call for driving x number of miles with gentle or normal braking, while others call for 6 or more runs from 60 to 15mph without stopping. Best bet is follow whatever instructions are included with the shoes/pads.

Also, if you change out your pads get the rotors turned especially if you change brands of pads. Most shops have the equipment to do it on the truck.