Well I have dome the same..well not all 5..when I replaced all that stuff last year..I changed the water pump..and over torqued one bolt..snapping the head..luckily I was able to get it out without damaging the threads.

How confident are you..or do you know someone who would be willing to attempt that? Its not the best area to work in..but if you take your time.. And make sure you are dead center with bolts..save ya some $$$

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Did you have to take the timing cover off to get the broken bolt out?

 

It would be best to try to find someone that will attempt to remove the bolts without removing the cover. Removing the cover is labor intensive as the oil pan has to be dropped to allow the oil pickup tube to be disconnected from the oil pump, which is located in the cover assembly. I don't know how they would damage the water jacket unless they are talking about damage that might occur during the broken bolts removal.

Just in case that you need the info, The front cover assembly (including the oil pump) is available from this website for $116.84+shipping: ENGINE ASM-3.. Fits: CANYON 2WD, CANYON 2WD Crew Cab, CANYON 2WD Extended Cab, CANYON 2WD Regular Cab, CANYON 2WD Z71 FLEET, CANYON 2WD Z71 SL... | Nalley Buick GMC Brunswick

It is also available from gmpartsdirect.com for $153.09 shipped.

 

Wow, thanks!

I was headed down the path of removing the front cover, but couldn't get the crankcase pulley off. When we broke the torque wrench trying to do that, I decided to give up. There happens to be a shop right where the truck is sitting, but when I talked to them, it was apparent that they were going to charge me a huge amount of money. So, I'm having it towed to a shop where I actually know the owner. We'll see what happens. Nothing is so frustrating as being able to see how to do something and not being able to do it. Anyway, I appreciate all of your insight.

 

If you plan on accomplishing your own maintenance, it would be a good idea to have some detailed instructions pertaining to the tasks that you will be attempting. One good source is a subscription to alldatadiy.com For about $28, for the first year, you will have access to all of the information available in the GM Service Manual.

 

Thanks. I'm learning. All of this was the result of a stupid mistake - so lesson learned; don't work on something when you're tired/hungry/not thinking clearly.

 

.. - so lesson learned; don't work on something when you're tired/hungry/not thinking clearly.

Truer words were never spoken..
And we've all been there.

Hey, I've known guys who had serious industrial accidents 'cause they were in a hurry, it was the end of the day, etc.


Hope you get it back on the road soon without losing too much $$$.


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So you broke the bolt heads off or pulled the threads out of the block?

 

I broke the bolts off about 1/2 down. So in effect, the heads and the non-threaded part of the bolts.

 

If you knew someone with a tig welder, I used to stack beads on the tip of broken bolts so I could grab them with vice grips and turn them out. Not sure how applicable this is space wise or with electronics hooked up and all... knowing the electrical system in these, I wouldn't chance it, but I tbought I would throw the idea out there in case it sparked another one thT worked.

also, make sure the holes are clean and DRY before putting bolts in. Any water will create a lot of force due to the hydraulic affect when tightening the bolt.

 

I had it towed to the shop that's not too far from me. It's probably two miles from my house. I know the owner, but probably not well enough to hang out after hours or that sort of thing. But, I feel like he and his guys are honest. More to come...

 

....stopped by on the way home from work today. Mr. S. says, "It's bad". He had just closed, so I didn't stick around to bother him too much. They are having to pull the front cover off to get at the bolts. I'm assuming all five bolts go through the front (timing) cover into the block?
How bad do you guys think this might be? I guess in terms of hours invested....
*sigh*

 

Couldn't you have just used an EZ out to extract the broken bolts? Or would that area be too tight to get it in there? I'm not familiar with what's involved in changing the water pump, but when I've broken bolts, I've always used an EZ out or a left handed drill bit. Just something that's nice to have in the toolbox for times like that!

 

That's what I was thinking...pull the grill and the radiator and you have a straight shot.

 

The bolts were broken off at the beginning of the thread; so down in the timing cover holes. I was concerned that I might not be able to get nicely centered with the left handed drill bit / ez out. I dunno. Maybe I've screwed the pooch.

 

He has two threads, here and Colorado fans.

It's a time thing, and inexperience. Awkward area. Not having the knowledge of EZ out and not wanting to risk drilling the threads of the block.

I mentioned somethign about the necessary tools but he hasn't responded. Perhaps he doesn't have the tools, combined with the time to learn and do the work. He's looking at a weekend, or at least a full day - assuming a shop wants an hour per bolt. Never mind the front cover, oil pan ,etc.

 

The bolts were removed for the pump change so they should not be frozen in place. They are broken off, so there shouldn't be much torque on them. Unless the threads in the cover were "pulled" by the overtorque, the remaining pieces shouldn't be that hard to extract. Depending on how far the pieces are recessed, they might even come out with a sharp punch and a hammer. Access, as others have mentioned, is the key.

 

Yeah, I have two threads - thanks. I'll respond to the other one on Colorado Fans, too. Sorry. And, I really appreciate all of the responses. I'm sure this has given folks all over the country a chuckle at one guy's stupidity. :-(

No, I don't have the necessary tools. I have some, but not all. No breaker bar or torque wrench. I do have a nice metric and SAE set of wrenches. Plus, the weather here has been horrible (storms, rain - for days). My buddy and I tried to take the front cover off while it was in the parking lot where I lost the water pump. No joy - couldn't get the crankshaft pulley off. At that point, I decided to throw in the towel and have it towed to ******'s Automotive here in town. They are about two miles from my house and the owner has always been very helpful. More importantly, I feel they do honest work. They've been around for years and anyone I've talked to that has been there recommends them. I've had them do work for me in the past.

My situation here is pretty stupid -and could have EASILY been avoided all together if I'd just stopped for a little while and gotten my wits about me. Live and learn, I suppose. At this point, I'm only guessing at what the labor might be. And of course, there's the time bit - wife's in school, grandfather is in the hospital, etc. You know, life - just like everyone else. I can't really complain as I brought this on myself. And so, I'm waiting for the phone to ring with news of the truck. I'm not rushing them, though. I'm just wondering how much time it'll take, because that'll be the driving factor in the cost of undoing my screwup.

 

Don't beat yourself up too badly about this. There is not one Member here that hasn't screwed up something in their efforts at vehicle maintenance. Most of them would rather not admit it, or post it for the world to see. Look around the forums when you have time. All of those broken exhaust manifold bolts or ignition coil mount bolts that were reported broken, weren't defective hardware. A lot of people don't realize that the torque requirements when working with aluminum are much different than steel. What you are experiencing is "learning the hard way". It is not the best way, but it is very effective. Hopefully the shop can remove the bolts without pulling the cover.

 

I agree with cart we have all been there. Some are just more willing to admit it the others.

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Yep, it's been a few days now. Let it go - stop feeling how it was all your fault.
You gave it an attempt. It went bad. We've all been there. In the end, the truck will be functioning again and you'll be cruising around worry free.

I made the comment about the 2nd thread because it seemed like this thread was beginning to question/comment on things you were already aware of, but without their knowledge.

You might want to check in with the shop just to see how it's going. Making sure they know you aren't okay with them taking excessive time.

I mentioned in one of the threads something similar to what Cart mentioned. The bolts are fresh, so that will hopefully allow them to be removed more easily. Saving the shop some effort and time per hole.

 

Guys, I appreciate those comments and the encouragement. And you're right, it'll all work out...

thanks again!

 

A little follow up to my self-induced saga. I got the truck back on Wednesday. I drove it to work on Thursday, and found a rather large oil puddle under it. Crawled under and thought that perhaps it was along the oil pan. Drove home (I did check the oil, it was okay - I live about four miles from work.) Due to family going's on, I parked the truck and have been driving my other car. This morning, I sprayed degreaser everywhere, wiped everything down, rinsed everything off and started up. Crawled under it to find that my main seal is leaking. I've got a small trickle of oil coming out along the crankcase pulley. I was hoping the leak would be around the oil pan, but that's not the case.

So...what now? Take it back to the shop? It didn't leak before, but I don't feel right having any sort of fit, because I'm confident that they cut me a great price on having the initial repair done. And...I'd not been there in the first place had I not torqued off the bolts to start with. Maybe I try to meet them half-way on labor? Should I take it to the dealer?

thanks.

 

I say you call the shop and mention it. Stay calm and be nice they may just offer to fix it. Or something. Make sure you mention it wasn't doing it before

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How did they get the broken bolts out? If they pulled the front cover, they had to remove the damper pulley first. If that was the case, they should have replaced the seal due to age.

 

They did pull the front cover, yes. Does Chevy sell the seal, or is it somehow integrated into the cover?

 

You already know what has to be removed to gain access. The Service Manual just says to remove the balancer pulley and pry the seal out with a "suitable tool".

 

Part Number 89017622, $14.03+tax at the Dealer.

ENGINE ASM-3.5L L5 PART 1 CYLINDER BLOCK & INTERNAL PARTS | Nalley Buick GMC Brunswick

 

I've only done a couple of seals on a 'live' vehicle and it really wasn't all that hard to do. Both Ford V/8's, a 255 and a 302. Only Chevy's I did were on 350's for circle track and didn't have to mess with coolant or anything.
for a working shop, it should be a piece of cake.