[chris_alexander]

I've been trying to figure out for a couple of years, why my light was on. My connections were fine, and had power, and I checked the driver's side wires for rash, or a break. I finally figured it out. It was my passenger's side wires that had a break. So guys, check that also if you've exhausted all your other options. I even changed your clock spring and stalk. Now, I'm looking at my cruise control. All fuses are fine, and no led lights installed anymore. I even took out my resistors for the hyper flash issue just in case they were causing the problem. :th_ontopic: lol.

 

[BennettCKM]

so I bought the wire harness. Gave the dealership the correct part # according to earlier post. Haul everything out and come to find out one connection is wrong. What I'm wondering is if anyone else has run into this issue? I really think I can just cut off the wrong connecter and put the old one on... Any advice? I have the wire harness in the second picture(one that is outside) and it should be the first one.

 

[cart7881]

Do you have a picture of the two connectors in question? Which part number did you order, the one in Post #1, or Post #24? The part number in Post #24 is for later model year (check the link). If the wires are the same you could probably just unpin the connectors and swap them.

 

[BennettCKM]

Here's the difference

 

[rshadd]

What is the part number that you ordered?

 

[rshadd]

Looks like there's a pigtail required for your year. For $20 I'd be inclined to try swapping the connectors. You should be able to unpin the connectors from the harness and swap them.

Item Number: 35
Part Number: 20806141
Description: HARNESS. Door and End Gate Electrical
HARNESS,RR S/D DR WRG - LH. Required: 01
HARNESS,RR S/D DR WRG(FOR 2006-07 MAY ALSO NEED PIGTAIL 15305950) - LH. Required: 01
HARNESS,RR S/D DR WRG(LABELED 20806141 OR 25851742) - LH. Required: 01
LHD. For: ST1(53) (2006-2007) (2006 - 2007).
LHD. For: ST1(53) (2008-2008) (2008 - 2008).
LHD. For: ST1(53) (2009-2011) (2009 - 2011).
Cost: $36.09

Connector | Genuine GM | 15305950 : GM Parts Direct: Your direct source for Genuine GM Parts

 

[Scott121LT]

Sorry to revive a dead thread....my 2012 extended cab is showing the symptoms identified in this thread. It appears to be the driver's door. Supposedly GM sent out a recall letter regarding this wire harness in the October 2015 timeframe (I purchased mine in January 2017).

I've searched the interwebs looking for a copy (or even a recall number) but have come up empty-handed.

Anyone, per chance, have a copy of this letter they can post (PII removed) or can give me the recall number I can go to the dealer with to see if they'll replace the harness?

Thanks in advance.

 

[93nav]

What Scott said. This seems to be a VERY common problem.

 

[psars61]

Two broken wires in the boot the driver's side extended cab door. As soon as I connect them, the airbag light goes out.

 

[OldGuy]

I've replaced both driver's and passenger's side on my '04. Any time I'm in a U-Pull yard, it grab any that I find, so I have a couple of spares. This is also sometimes the reason for stereo staying on and interior lights not coming on when you open your door. This harness is for rear door speaker, seat belt tensioner and the button for when you open your door. Yeah, these wires really get a workout!!

 

[v1ru5879]

I've replaced both driver's and passenger's side on my '04. Any time I'm in a U-Pull yard, it grab any that I find, so I have a couple of spares. This is also sometimes the reason for stereo staying on and interior lights not coming on when you open your door. This harness is for rear door speaker, seat belt tensioner and the button for when you open your door. Yeah, these wires really get a workout!!

Any chance you would wanna sell me one for the driver side rear? Just got my son a 06 canyon n pulled the rubber off to find all the wires broken

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[OldGuy]

I can handle the ABS light being on, but when that speaker stops working, that's when I absolutely have to address the broken wires in the harness!!

 

[v1ru5879]

Ran all over town just now looking for some 20 gauge wire, finally found some at napa. All the wires in my boot had been spliced before in areas but they all were broken in a new area. Gonna pull the harness out tonight and make the repair and solder my connections on both ends so they are inside the panels rather than in the boot. Going to shrink wrap the wires to help add some support, thought about some loom but unsure

 

[v1ru5879]

Added 8" splices to all the wires n the air bag light is off n the rear speaker works. Tomorrow the seats are coming out n door panels for a full detail

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[OldGuy]

v1ru5879 - I've made harnesses for my truck too. The hardest part is getting all the wires through the rubber boot! I twisted all the wires together and "screwed" them through the boot before putting the ends on the wires. Hope this helps.

 

[v1ru5879]

v1ru5879 - I've made harnesses for my truck too. The hardest part is getting all the wires through the rubber boot! I twisted all the wires together and "screwed" them through the boot before putting the ends on the wires. Hope this helps.

Well unfortunately the last person who did the repair sliced the boot right down the center, so I am going to have to pick up some loom n possibly silicone the grommet part of the boot back together, have it pressure fitted now and it seems to be holding. Might hit some local junk yards n try n grab a boot tho.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Talonxracer]

My 2010 has had the airbag light on since I bought it last summer(previous owner covered the light with tape). I finally got around to checking the harness's after the rear speakers just recently cut out. Both driver and pass sides were broken in multiple pieces inside the rubber boot.

I had no issues making up new sections of wires to go into the boots(10 years in the navy as a avionics maintenance tech and then 24 years as a general aviation electrician has given me a few skills in this area).

But there wasn't a chance in heck I was going to use the same improper type of wire that GM used, you can't use primary wire in a location that sees repeated 85-90 degrees of bending every time the door is opened and closed. You need to use a high strand count motor wire with a thin insulation because it is highly flexible and "limp" and can handle the repeated flexing/bending seen in this harness when the rear door is fully opened and the 90 degree bend in the rubber boot is pulled straight.

 

[OldTime]

My 2010 has had the airbag light on since I bought it last summer(previous owner covered the light with tape). I finally got around to checking the harness's after the rear speakers just recently cut out. Both driver and pass sides were broken in multiple pieces inside the rubber boot.

I had no issues making up new sections of wires to go into the boots(10 years in the navy as a avionics maintenance tech and then 24 years as a general aviation electrician has given me a few skills in this area).

But there wasn't a chance in heck I was going to use the same improper type of wire that GM used, you can't use primary wire in a location that sees repeated 85-90 degrees of bending every time the door is opened and closed. You need to use a high strand count motor wire with a thin insulation because it is highly flexible and "limp" and can handle the repeated flexing/bending seen in this harness when the rear door is fully opened and the 90 degree bend in the rubber boot is pulled straight.

Don't keep us in suspense , what is the appropriate wire to use ?

 

[Talonxracer]

A good wire to use is what I talked about in my post, motor wire. The tech designation is UL/CSA 1015 general purpose motor wire. Another decent alternative is SXL cross linked wire or GXL, TXL(which have even thinner insulation).

A good way to describe the differences between primary wire and motor wire is the difference between dry uncooked spaghetti vrs cooked spaghetti. Primary wire uses a low grade thermoplastic(which is rather brittle) for insulation while motor wire uses a PVC insulation and SXL use a cross linked polyethylene insulation. Most have noticed that the wires appear to have been cut cleanly, what happens is the insulation cracks first and then the wire inside the insulation starts bending the most in that specific location breaking the wire strands.

 

[OldTime]

Thanks for the tech tip.