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DJM Control Arms 2.0 Cracked

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12K views 40 replies 12 participants last post by  SLAB RIDE  
#1 ·
Bought the New DJM 3" lower control arms direct from DJM a year ago and yesterday the passenger side arm cracked in half and the wheel fell off.

I'm just thankful it didn't happen on the freeway. I just want to put this out there to anyone considering buying these, hopefully you see this and reconsider.
 

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#11 ·
Thanks man, nothing else broke besides the sway bar link.

WOW! Glad your not hurt. Worst that ever happened to me was a broken spring on a strut. Broken suspension parts can be scary.
Thanks brother

Man that could have been bad at highway speeds, glad nothing bad happened because of it. I had an outer tie rod end break on me, was able to limp it home (and steer) with just the boot holding it, anything over 50 km/h the wheel would wobble.
Yea I'm lucky. I was on the freeway minutes before this happened.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Man that could have been bad at highway speeds, glad nothing bad happened because of it. I had an outer tie rod end break on me, was able to limp it home (and steer) with just the boot holding it, anything over 50 km/h the wheel would wobble.



Exactly what I was thinking, looks rusted 80% of the crack and it was just hanging on by a little bit before it decided to let go.
 
#8 · (Edited)
To say the least.
Coulda killed several someones.

.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Now I want my money refunded.. and mine haven't been installed yet.
I would not sell them to anyone else seeing those photos (and knowing the problems others have reported over the years), and I sure won't install them.

I'd love it if I had the skills to fab anything to improve the OE arms.
Especially, a bracket to replace the tab on the OE arms to accommodate QA1's, where the lower shock mount attaches. I hate having to grind away so much material there, and it looks like hell.

.
 
#17 ·
This is why anyone modifying anything on there vehicle should regularly check there components. That rust says those arms have been cracked for some time. granted they should have never cracked but they did. who says those bell tech ball joints wont split either. or those wheel adapter don't have a fracture. do your self a favor and inspect your chit.

New stuff check after your first 100 miles possibly recheck torque. if every thing looks good then check it again at 500 miles. then 1000 miles, then I recommend inspecting all that stuff every oil change. Your a fool if you just slap after market components on and walk away never looking again.

Also don't burn a manufacture because 1 guy had a problem. Burn them if they fail to resolve this in a proper manor.
Otherwise none of us should own these with all the steering shaft recalls and deaths.
 
#18 · (Edited)
...
Also don't burn a manufacture because 1 guy had a problem. Burn them if they fail to resolve this in a proper manor.
Agreed.
This isn't the first though.
Not sure how many were reported across both the Nation and C-Fans, but it's more than one or two.

From recent years word was they were re-designed and strengthened.
That's why I took a chance and purchased a set.

I'm certainly no authority, but might it be that making a set of tubular arms requires more than the steel tubing + welding technology/techniques + whatever fixturing/tooling that DJM has applied to the task so far?
I'm only asking the question.

If I have to eat my set then so be it. I'd rather that than have the same result as the OP.
 
#20 ·
I see they're on sale at the DJM shop online.. $250

CA2400L-3
 
#21 ·
Pretty sure Slab was alluding to the re-designed parts in the OP title reference to
"DJM Control Arms 2.0".
 
#26 ·
Damn... and I was just starting to consider LCAs to get an extra inch drop. I went with balljoints originally because of this problem.

And I will second the idea that MMW could have done a lot better job on the uppers. Quality is fine, and they are holding up perfect, but they don't fit the factory steering knuckle without modification. Their uppers don't even fit their own steering knuckles without modifications.
 
#30 ·
LoeRado, are you saying you are running DJM LCA's with QA1's? You are not having a problem with the adjustment knob rubbing? Which way is your knob turned and do you have any pictures of them installed you could share?
 
#33 ·
Though I'm not confident installing my LCA's, I may become convinced at some point.
Sure do want something better than OE arms.

And it seems pretty lame to run the OE stamped arms with Larry's fine UCA..
@LoeRado, may I get a copy also?
 
#36 · (Edited)
Much, much appreciated!


:355group:
 
#38 ·
Dropping not much more than 3-1/2 - 4 inches... need to be able to drive anywhere,
Re-locating the battery to the bed to relieve the front end of that weight so I don't need to tub it.
 
#39 · (Edited)
Finally got some pic's for you Rick and R they aren't the greatest because it is tricky getting a good angle without being on a hoist.both shocks have the control knobs facing inward toward the center of the truck....I hope this helps if not let me know and next time I have it in the shop and on the rack I will take better pic's.
 

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#40 · (Edited)
Oh. My.
That looks like death on a bun.


Stay safe!