Noob here. Just grabbed a 2009 Colorado 4x4 crew w/factory 5.3L. 3 days later pulled the backing plates off complete and dropped them in the scrap bin with the drums (free if anybody wants them, you pay shipping). Bolted on the TSM kit, went perfect. Talked with "Skip" ahead of time, and he gave an easy hint on how to retain the ABS senor.
There is a part number ID stamped on the rotor to source it, but I didn't bother to track it once I had them. I did order their complete kit, but then decided not to use the hoses because as an improvement point, I had a local hydraulic shop make up 2 DOT flex hoses which directly thread onto the factory hard line and wheel cylinder line nut, and route to the calipers. No cutting, flaring, or welding, at all. All I did was rotate the hard line end 90 degrees by hand. My hydro shop did say the included ones were of high quality, so no issue there, I am just lazy and wanted a more direct route rather than use adapters. Also if you want to avoid the flaring tool, this is a much more convenient approach. I slammed new axle shaft seals in and a new diff cover gasket while there with the fluid change.
Instantly gave me the pedal feel I was looking for. Vented rear saucers in the back look and feel like it should have been from the factory, connected to 300hp upstream. Self cleaning, self adjusting, nearly zero pedal travel till actuation, all that.
I studied to convert from a full size setup, but our somewhat unique rectangular axle end flange is not the same as the full size square pattern. 6L80e and 6.2L up next (one then the other, not sure which first). If anybody has done either, please say hello, I do have a few compatibility questions regarding E67 + T43 communication, in addition to a 6L80e to T150 transfer case adapter. TurboAl thank you for the helpful phone call.
There is a part number ID stamped on the rotor to source it, but I didn't bother to track it once I had them. I did order their complete kit, but then decided not to use the hoses because as an improvement point, I had a local hydraulic shop make up 2 DOT flex hoses which directly thread onto the factory hard line and wheel cylinder line nut, and route to the calipers. No cutting, flaring, or welding, at all. All I did was rotate the hard line end 90 degrees by hand. My hydro shop did say the included ones were of high quality, so no issue there, I am just lazy and wanted a more direct route rather than use adapters. Also if you want to avoid the flaring tool, this is a much more convenient approach. I slammed new axle shaft seals in and a new diff cover gasket while there with the fluid change.
Instantly gave me the pedal feel I was looking for. Vented rear saucers in the back look and feel like it should have been from the factory, connected to 300hp upstream. Self cleaning, self adjusting, nearly zero pedal travel till actuation, all that.
I studied to convert from a full size setup, but our somewhat unique rectangular axle end flange is not the same as the full size square pattern. 6L80e and 6.2L up next (one then the other, not sure which first). If anybody has done either, please say hello, I do have a few compatibility questions regarding E67 + T43 communication, in addition to a 6L80e to T150 transfer case adapter. TurboAl thank you for the helpful phone call.
