lighten up your unsprung weight would help a good bit, usually lighter wheels and tires

 

Ok. Anything else?


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i've always ajusted how my vehicles rode by how much weight is in them and the size of tire they are on. remember your tire is a secondary spring, the bigger the air capacity the more give it'll have. a softer, longer spring could get you the lift and ride quality you want, but they are difficult to find for our trucks.

 

So if I got bigger tires and got some good shocks from like rancho or something. It would improve a lot? What about the cv members? Do they make other ones so there isn't such bad angles?


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I think to get a better answer, you should tell us what lift method did you use? Spindles, coils, spacers? etc. This will help us help you better.

 

I did the torsion bar lift on a 2011 gmc canyon z71 4x4 and the lift kit was from ready lift and have shackles on the back.

 

Ball Joint flip removing my sway bar helped too but I did that for more flex on the trail

 

spend 1,200 on a real lift kit and get your ride quality back.

 

Way easier said than done, 1,200 is no cheap ticket

:shrug:

 

with the front cranked its pretty much going to ride rougher regardless. bigger tires wont necessarily help, i went up to 33"s but they are 10 ply mt's and way rougher than the stocks were. if you haven't already dropped the differential you prolly want to look into it.

 

I know its costly but theres a few ways to lift and maintain good ride quality. a real lift kit or a body lift.

cranking the t-bars even with all the little extras like diff drop, ball joint flip, etc. will lift you up but your ride quality will suffer.

 

for the cv angles drop your front diff using spacers, at least 1/2". I dropped mine 3/4" for my 2" tb crank. As for a softer fide... well not going to happen with a tb crank. From what I heard most aftermarket shocks for our trucks, like rancho, are actually stiffer than the stock ones, but I don't know for sure... try maybe some Bilstein shocks.

try this thread if you haven't already http://www.355nation.net/forum/lifting/15791-shock-information-stock-lifted-tb-suspensions.html

 

I did a tb crank and shackles lift on my truck. the front will ride harder than stock for sure. but when i put my shackles on i also added a set of pro comp absorbers to my set up. they rode really stiff at first but now that the are broken in i think the ride slightly softer in the rear. but when you ckank the tb you are going to end up with a more stiff ride no matter the absorber you put on the arms.

 

You could also put a spacer on the lower ball joint and run less crank that'll give you a half inch max without changing spring rate if you 4x4 i think you can run a bit more if you 2wd

 

The spring rate of the torsion bar doesn't change when "cranking" the keys. What changes is the angle of the lower control arms to the ground, which has the effect of reducing the preload. The lower control arms are also pulled away from the "bumpstops" (which are actually auxiliary springs) so your stuck with a linear spring until they make contact again. You loose down travel too. These three things are what typically cause the loss in ride quality when "cranking" the torsion bars to achieve lift. On the extreme end of things, if you've gone high enough to bind up the suspension you'll definitely experience some ride quality issues!


-Sam

 

Ok thanks guys for lal your help. Im new to this lifting stuff since this is my first truck.

 

whats your paypal Ill send it right over...

























































:fugrin: igfly:

 

Haha. I was about to then seen the bottom post


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i've got the SMaxx 2" shackle and TBars cranked to level with Rancho shocks. the ride isnt that bad. if anything, its more truck like.