well then i would try cranking ur own torsion bars....before buyin new keys..See if urs will lift and if not get some new ones.....then get a set of shackles for the rear......

 

Keys aren't necessary the stock keys will get you 3" of lift. Make sure you do the differential drop though if you don't use the suspension maxx kit. Shackles can be a pain in the ass on high mileage trucks because of the bolt that goes through the leaf spring can get stuck in the bushing and then you will be fighting a little to get it out, worst case scenerio you have to burn the bushing out and install a new one.

It's all pretty straight forward, just leave yourself a full day for the install in case you run into one of the possible snags. If you are very unsure of yourself PM me and I will give you my cell number so you can give me a call if something trips you up on the install, or wait for a mod meet and have some of the texas boys help you out.

 

I've already had my torsion keys cranked to about 1.5 ins I believe. That was the max I wasw able to get them done at the place where I get my alignment. They told me anymore would throw it out of alignment. Thats why I was looking at getting new ones

 

Keys will do nothing to help you get aligned. You will be able to align with your stock suspension at it's limits, so they are full of it. You may have to do a Ball joint flip though to aide in the alignment, but that's a free easy mod.

I have my torsion bars cranked to the max on top of a 4" kit with the ball joint flip and mine aligns within 0.1 degree of perfect camber. My Upper control arm lays on the bump stop because it is maxed out so with this being the case there is no reason they shouldn't be able to align it. Most alignment shops are retards just use them for alignments don't let them work on your truck.

 

hey guys, im trying to get rid of my rubbing on my front tires also am looking for a little more lift

so if i have a 3inch body lift and two cranks on my torsion bar and want a little more lift, should i do bigger shackles? If so, do i only have to replace the stock shackles with larger ones? then im done?

Thanks a lot:salute:

 

S-maxx system is a great way to go we get member discount! Also if my buddy lone star blaze can do his you can also! lol....

 

:yeahthat:



































:ugh: Wait.....


:lol:

i did mine this weekend, it's pretty simple........once you get the keys in right:ugh:


come to TXSM we'll learn ya

 

Since this thread has been brought back to life... I'm doing my shackles now and the bolts don't wanna come out, any suggestions other then heat, I don't want to buy new bushings lol

 

Dang military I so want to go to TXSM but have to be on call the mar 30-apr 3 boooooooo...

 

lone star... are those 31s on there?

 

Nope
32's:naughty:

 

I just put my Smaxx setup at the beginning of this week and I was abit nervous at how hard it would be but the front was a piece of cake. It was trying to get my shackles done that was a biiiiaaaaattttccchh. Having it see a few winters in Wisconsin and Ohio made those bolts a hell of a time hammering out. I had my buddy apply pressure on and off of the bolt while I hit it with the impact just working it back and forth to free it from the crud built up in it. (with plenty of PB blaster and WD40) lol.

 

Wondering Star,How much the ride changed.I'm sure it's stiffer.Is it substantial or moderate change? Trying myself to give up ride for THE LOOK?

 

how do you crank the stock torsions??? And whats the max i can do them without doing the diff drop or extended cv's?

 

so should i bother with the keys that came with my 2 " lift or just crank and add spacers for front. what is the advantage of using new keys that came with lift?

 

As mentioned above, just try to use your keys that are stock. If you have an older vehicle, or a lot of miles, the driver side may have sagged beyond the limits of what a stock key can achieve. If that is the case, then install the new keys.

There is absolutely no advantage to aftermarket keys aside from achieving further lift, or to compensate for sagged bars. Don't be fooled into thinking the new keys will give you a better ride either. If your finish height is +2" with your stock keys, or new keys, the ride quality will be identical.

Like xkmacx86 asks, please provide more information.

 

What lift did you buy? What year truck, and how many miles?

 

I'd say crank the bars and call it good and resale the keys. I did around a 2.5" crank and never ran a diff drop and didnt have any problems. You can always use some washers to drop it alittle. You can even do a ball joint flip to help out.

 

I'm not a sales guy, so I have no idea what 'sales tactics' the ad's may use to persuade a potential buyer.

Man, I tell everybody there there is no such thing as 2" lift. I don't hear that too often. Just one or two other people help set it straight to those who haven't researched plenty of how a torsion key works.

I personally find it amusing when somebody says something like "I installed 2" keys, what size tire can I fit?"

 

Looking to do a 3" kit, shackles on the rear keys in the front, I'm reading all these posts about spacing the differential and the upper ball joint flip, are these a must or can I get buy with just putting the parts on and aligning it, I'm not worried about ride quality, I drove a 3/4 ton with cranked tb's so it ain't nothing new for me lol, was hopin to get some advise on this from people that have done it before.


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as stated many times before, keys are unnecessary... as far as a ball joint flip and a dif drop, I drove mine around for 2 weeks without, and after doing them, I would definitely say it is a must... if you are going to max your torsion bars, you will most likely bind the ball joint, hence the necessity for the bj flip... and unless you want to replace cv axles every couple of years, as simple of a task as it is to drop the dif, it would be senseless not to do it... a "kit" is going to run you about $300 with no ball joint spacer, and no dif spacers... pick up a set of 2-2.5" shackles off ebay (bent not welded) for about $60... call larry at suspension max and pick up 3/4 spacers for the dif, and 1/4 spacer for the ball joint... all together you are looking at $250 for a setup that will function and ride much nicer than the... "kit"

 

What kind of shocks would you recommend to go with that? Cause that really does sound like a better idea


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I run bilsteins, but it's a matter of preference, a lot of people around here run ranchos (which can be had at your local advance auto typically) all 4 will run you about 250-300... stock length s-10 zr2 rear shocks are a direct fit with a 3" longer suspension travel over the colorado

these are what I run
front: F4-BE5-D934-H0
rear: F4-B46-1819-H0

check this page out... you should find it very helpful for deciding which shocks you would like to run
http://www.355nation.net/forum/lifting/15791-shock-information-stock-lifted-tb-suspensions.html

 

stock shocks will work in the front because your not changing the amount of suspension travel with a tb lift... unless you want to change them for something better

for the rear longer shocks are needed for 2"+ of lift

Bilsteins, Rancho, or Skyjacker are the brands guys usually go with... anything is better than the stock shocks

http://www.355nation.net/forum/lifting/15791-shock-information-stock-lifted-tb-suspensions.html

 

Old thread, but anyone not blocking their rig when working underneath is look'n for trouble...known a few who didn't make it out. Do yourself a favor and invest is a set of stands...HF always has them on sale.

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