never done it, have shortened some driveshafts though, just make sure you find a good maching shop to to get it balanced.

 

Done a 2-piece for an even LONGER 2-piece... but no 1-piece here...

 

Kevin was talking about doing it a while back but never did. I guess you can swap with an ext cab from what he was saying..

 

i have a extended cab.. and it has a 2piece driveshaft. then again i am 2wd. but i wish i had a one piece driveshaft.. it would help eliminate that stupid carrier bearing that needs to be dropped to correct my angle.

 

what about swapping for an aluminum one like silverados

 

All driveshafts that use U-joints have vibration issues since the joint cross rotates, but the caps also rock front to rear during operation, meaning the cap ends are forced to repeatedly accelerate and decelerate with every revolution. This is known as excitation torque, and eliminating vibrations and harmonics due to this phenomenon is the primary reason a driveshaft must be balanced. The issue you're going to have is that the longer the shaft is, the more pronounced these vibrations are near it's center, making it harder to balance it effectively enough to cancel vibrations from the u-joints. This is the primary reason auto makers go with a 2-piece driveshaft instead of longer shafts. A 2-piece shaft means that at some point, engineers decided it was impossible or too expensive to eliminate all of the vibrations while still using a one piece shaft.

If your truck has been lifted or lowered any, then it's likely that the u-joints operate in slightly different planes as well, further aggravating the issue.

You'd probably be fine, but figured it was worth mentioning. Nothing drives you nuts like a driveshaft vibration. Just something to think about.

 

i have an aluminum one piece driveshaft. but it comes down to are you 4wd or 2wd need specs here

 

as Indychus said it's just too much distance for a one piece. The transmission would have to be at a wicked angle to get the drive shaft at the right angle. My extended cab 4x4 has the one piece but that's because my transfer case is over a foot long and allows the shaft to be shorter than a 2wd would end up.

You won't really gain anything from it so I don't see it being worth the bullshit, unless your bagging and hacking the truck to hell anyway.

 

You won't really gain anything from it so I don't see it being worth the bullshit, unless your bagging and hacking the truck to hell anyway.

this is sort of a shitty comment. i took it as a bagged truck is a hacked truck. not always true. i have seen plenty of lifted "hacked" vehicles also..

 

here's what i know. extended cabs and crew cabs have the same wheelbase, same gastank crossmember and all that. when i do my SOA i proposed a trade with another member my one piece for his 2 piece carrier bearing and all. this said the only modification i'd need to do would be to gusset and weld in the carrier bearing onto my gas tank cross member.

another point of contention axl (eric) and i spoke about is the crappy carrier bearing, wondering if there's another bearing out there that stronger or better working

 

yeah our carrier bearing stock sucks big time.

 

i used to have a picture of i think a member sent me when he had his carrier bearing dropped down to correct driveshaft angles. but i cant find it.. i think it was dropped like 1"

 

yeah i'll prob lower it as low as i can go maybe even part way into the crossmember. we'll see

 

when you do can you take and post pics? cause im really looking to fix mine. but i eventually want to do SOA in the rear if i ever lift the front up any higher first.

 

here not the Thread jack or nothing but heres how bad mine is since january when i lifted the truck

i cant find the one pic where it looks off centered tho..

 

damn sucks

 

i cant tell what thickness that square is made out of but i wonder if it would rack back and forth under stress and vibration. the only thing i can think of is that if that is the case the bracked absorbs the vibration instead of the bearing. still looks flimsy tho
personally i'd just cut off the mount and weld it lower.

 

id gusset it to the frame if that bracket was to be used. im just worried bout it rocking back and forth too. it have to be straight up welded to the frame for me to trust it.

cause when stuck rocking the truck from 1st to reverse several times does take its toll on the driveshaft..

i know my yoke is out about 1/8-1/4" inch from the transmission