Volvo. Many of the wagons will work. Pick up a 40mm hose adapter, 195 temp switch, wire the high side to the ac compressor. Volvo has a fan and controller that will suit your need, Lmk if you have questions.

 

Why do you need to custom build a fan shroud when they're quite a few fan assemblies that fit the 355 radiator core size almost perfect?

Also that temp switch & relay combo are just more mechanical parts which are prone to failure with that high amperage motor and a variable speed solid state PWC controller may be the best option.

I personally believe by the time you have all this accomplished with the time, materials, effort & money spent you might have been better off going with a SuperModulation EFan setup for about the same cost.

http://www.355nation.net/forum/sfan...ric-fan/19452-supermodulation-efan-model-sfan4500-electric-cooling-fan-kit.html

 

i agree with freeballin. i actually tried to do what you are talking about here, the fans were too big to fit inside the rad dimensions so my shroud stuck out on each side. then i bought a flexalite single fan and mounted it straight to the rad. that obviously isnt the best option but here i am, a few hundred bucks down the road, and i just bought a used super mod fan.

save yourself the trouble and do it right the first time.

ps going to an electric fan vs a clutch fan is highly recommended.

 

I also agree on the supermodulation fan. Bolt up and designed to work with our trucks. They flow an impressive amount of air and it's made and designed by a member of the community who also stands behind his products hand over foot.

 

I have looked at the supermodulation fans and they look awesome!! however they are a little out of my price range unless I missed something they somehwere in the $350 plus range. I have nothing against it at all in fact I would love one but I cant bring myself to spend that much on this project.

how exactly am I not doing this right? I want to build a shroud one for fun and 2 because then I know exactly how it was put in there. plus it would be a little different than others. if I could maybe get parts or something from super modulation for cheaper and piece something together that might work.


another thought I just had was if I am going to put the sensor on the lower radiator hose wouldnt I want the fan to actuate closer to around 180? because if I am getting 195+ water exiting the radiator I think I have a really big issue.

PS I am still open to other thoughts and I appreciate the help

 

For your truck, The SFAN4500 efan kit will cost you $275 plus shipping
Comes all pre-wired to your specific truck, includes installation hardware and a lower hose inline temp sensor.

 

thats a little less than I was thinking I read. sorry about that. I have read tons of things. what temps is it set to?

 

low 18X
hi 19X

Sure I'll sell you parts or just the efans.

Just the efan, single or dual fans with mounting hardware but no controller for $225 plus shipping

 

ok cool what about maybe just the controler part? sorry I am just looking at my options

 

Bite the bullet and buy the "Supermodulation" fan complete !!!
I understand you wanting to mod on your truck... Pick another project and get the best part for your application from a top tier modifying guru such as @Supermodulation !!!

 

I wish I would of bought mine sooner. I live in AZ and my efan has easily handled everything I've thrown at it. 110 ambient in stop and go traffic and my temps stay steady and AC stays icy

 

sheet metal for shroud=$25 (home depot, Lowes)

lol​

how exactly am I not doing this right? I want to build a shroud one for fun and 2 because then I know exactly how it was put in there. plus it would be a little different than others. if I could maybe get parts or something from super modulation for cheaper and piece something together that might work.

PS I am still open to other thoughts and I appreciate the help

Most fabricated sheet metal & aluminum shrouds are intended for engine driven blades or universal push/pull fans which won't flow enough to meet the requirements of your truck.

The Ford Taurus fan you mention has a three bolt rear mounted flange plate support that would be very hard to duplicate by any custom builder.

A sheet metal shroud would be too flimsy to support the motor high torque twisting and a thicker aluminum version would cost at least a hundred bucks in materials cost.​

ok cool what about maybe just the controler part? sorry I am just looking at my options

As for the solid state PWM variable speed controller they're quite a few brands on the market such as Flex-o-lite, Hayden, DC-Control, Spal, Painless, Derale etc. that start around 75 bucks on up.​

 

What did you end up going with? I have personally used the taurus fan but it took a lot of work to barely get it to fit. I even cut the snout off the water pump and it still barely fit.

 

the taurus us very thick. some of the volvos are pretty thin and fit well.

 

I havent done it yet. I am still collecting info and parts. so far I have dual fans out of murcury cougar v6,a temperature sensor from a VW but I am not sure about its temperature yet, and a volvo relay controller. I still need a hose adapter

so far from my measurements the fan should fit the radiator pretty close width wise but is short up and down wise by like 3 inches. this is just from my measurements but what I want to do is get some sheet metal and add to the shroud of the fan so that it covers the whole radiator. and since I want to use sheet metal I think I will get some 3/8 steel rod and use the locating holes that are already in the radiator setup, and then use the two big holes in the radiator to the top.

I am debating whether or not to put some flappers in to help with cruising air flow but I am not sure yet. also I am looking for something that would help seal it to the sides of the radiator.

I have nothing against super modulations set up and I am sure it is better than what I am putting together but I am still curious if I can put something together that will work. I am not going to ruin or cut any of the stock parts so that anything I do will be reversable if I dont like it or it is a epic fail. so far I have $40 into the project.

I used a ford windstar dual fan setup on my k1500 with a 350 and it has been working pretty good. I am using a hayden fan controller for it. it made quite a difference in the get up and go on that pickup.

 

the flappers dont really help much.

 

What kind of temps do you see in Vegas? And how did you mount your fan? I live in Wyoming, but I'm going to school in Utah. In Utah we see temps around 100 but in Wyoming a 95 degree day is a very very hot day. Of course I want it to be able to handle about anything though.

 

Vegas has seen 110+ this year. But to be honest, I think the fan will do just fine. I believe I have other issues in my cooling system that I haven't figured out yet.

 

I used the fan & control that I got from LMC , that was in my 91 s-10 2.8 v6. it went in a 05 with the 2.8 4cyl. ran the sensor where up top by the in coming hose. hooked up my scanner and ran it for about an hour. adjusted it to come on a hair earlier than needed. do it! It is one of the few things you can do that puts more power to the rear wheels & better gas mileage.

 

so maybe someone can clarify this for me....

the thermostat is in the lower radiator hose.... how does that work??? the coolant should flow from the motor into the top of the radiator and then back into the motor from the bottom of the radiator. soooo if the thermostat is in the bottom how does it do that??

 

ok so I finally got around to installing the electric fan. I used the contour dual electric fan, I used 1/8 inch angle iron down the sides of the fan and some window weatherstripping to seal it to the radiator supports. since the fan comes up a couple inches short on the radiator I got some 18 gauge sheet metal and put a 90 degree bend on it so that it would rest on the lip of the bottom of the radiator. I also used some all thread attached to the bottom of the fan to use for the alignment holes on the radiator, the only issue there is that apparently I measured wrong and so they don't quite fit in the holes. I will be fixing this soon.

I ended up using the BMW dual temperature sensor with the lower temperature in the bottom radiator hose. the fan turns on when the truck gets roughly to 207 degrees and cools it down really fast untill it gets to about 191. My guess is that I should have listened to badlander and went with a little hotter sensor because the thermostat is probably closing and so the water isn't circulating to the sensor, I have a new sensor on its way that will be a little hotter. This also tells me that my thermostat has probably been replaced with a 195.

I used the famous volvo relay controler with a 40 amp inline fuse. I plan on adding a circuit so that when the AC is on the fan will come on as well. and I also might add something like a emergency circuit so that in the event the relay dies or maybe I just want to manually turn it on I still can.

so far it seems like it will work great I am going to try the hotter sensor and see what happens, I didn't modify anything to the point that if I need to go back to the normal fan it is just a matter of removing the electric fan and putting the old shroud back in. the fan is super quiet and in the cab its actually really hard to notice when it turns on. it also doesn't seem to suck much energy at all. My camera on my phone is currently not working but I will try to get pictures up soon of the finished product.