I wanna see this done with the ability to air up a tire if needed Sir......no Slacking!

a small recoiling real with the air hose through the bumper where the spare tire would have been lowered would be a clean spot


:kiki2:

 

Hey Hey no peaking :ugh:


The next step was I welded "L" brackets to the tank and a platform for the horn to mount on. Painted the air tank with bed liner paint.

 

well change your avavtar then, I keep trying to peep up her shirt.

 

Ok ok you can look but only with ONE eye. :naughty:




Test fit the horn mounting bracket.

 

we definitely need a video after its hooked up :thumbup:

 

Leak down: PASSED

Test for any leaks from my welding and also plan on how I'm going to mount the electric air valve.

 

That outta shake the ice of of her this winter.

 

So far so good brudda! :355:

Note to self wear ear plugs when around my brudda's truck.

 

sooooo how muchh

 

Made the manifold tree out of 3 tees. I also added an automotive quick air fitting that will allow me to fill my wheels with air when needed.
I also re-used the 3/8" hose to the horn for max valume instead of the 1/4" air line.

Note.: I did the leak down test again and found a leak where the gauge is screwed in to the bottom of the manifold. To fix it with out removing the gauge I just released all the air and created a small amount of vacuum to suck in the Permabond 910 glue.

 

what compressor are you going to run?

 

VIAIR 380C

Adding a valve to your drain will keep you from having to get under the truck to drain the moisture too. In the winter months you might need to add some air brake anti freeze in the tank to keep your valves from freezing, so a easy way to add that is good thinking (while you are in the build process).

So go with an electric air valve for the bleeder?

 

Omg that octoberfest shit SUCKS in the bottle!!!!

Lookin good so far. Just make sure its all takeapartable so you can clean it.

And it dosnt look like your bleeder valve is at the lowest point so it can drain the moisture that builds in the tank...

Dosnt LOOK....

 

Looks good, only thing I would suggest is to use a push lock fitting on the horn side for that air line....@125psi+, that worm clamp wont last long, especially under your truck in NJ winters :lol:

 

I think I may have to do this too! hehe..Like the way your making it all one compact unit for the most part.

Also have the same damn location in mind for it. I just wish I could do it somehwere that was near the front of the truck. i wanna freak the hell out of people who don't use turn signals.. dumbass's who walk in the middle of the road... people who look funny...you know, the normal. LOL

 

I just wish I could do it somehwere that was near the front of the truck.

You can hang them horizontal on the support bar in front of the radiator

 

Just put the horns in the front bandaidz.

 

Can you remote mount them I take it..? Forgive me but i do NOT know hardly anything about this stuff. I don't wanna clog up his thread. I will do my own research guys. thanks! New mod coming! LOL

 

All you need is air going to them, so as long as you gets ome air line you're fine

 

Looks good man, that's the same place I have my tank mounted. Your package will ship tomorrow morning.

You can remote mount horns, here's where I put mine:

It doesn't really matter where you put them, they are loud enough to make people get out of the way in a hurry even if mounted under the bed.

 

supermod's horns are fuggin loud. the people of derty jerz are going to be in a hurry to get out of his way...

 

I'm liking all the good info you guys are giving me. :thumbup:

I will add a bleeder to the lowest point on the air tank. Any Suggestions?


While I had everything on the bench and doing some tests I was getting high voltage transients from the air valve coil so I added a transient clamping circuit.

Note: Do not cut back the coil wire. Keep it long so you can service or rebuild the valve.


.1uF capacitor and any silicone rectifier in parallel will do the trick.

I covered it with heat shrink and some RTV to keep the weather out since it will be under the truck.

 

Adding a valve to your drain will keep you from having to get under the truck to drain the moisture too. In the winter months you might need to add some air brake anti freeze in the tank to keep your valves from freezing, so a easy way to add that is good thinking (while you are in the build process).

 

Yessir, makes it a ton easier, you need to drain once a week. Now imagine having to crawl under just to drain every week.

 

I like this idea! THE WHEELS ARE SPINNING LOL

Hmmm now where would it be a good location so it doesn't get ripped off from any road debris?!?!?

 

I seen one hooked up to look like a nitrous purge, but... not a good idea. It blew oily water all over his truck.

 

I was gonna say that the ideas are making the build overly complicated...then i remembered whose thread i was about to post in...:lol:

 

The rain finally stopped so I took some pics of the under carriage. Drilled the 4 mounting holes and sprayed the under carriage with 2 rattle cans of RustOLium undercoating.

Passenger side, AirLift compressor and Manifold for my rear helper bags.

I plan on doing the same thing for the VIAIR 380C compressor and mounting it up under the driver side rear bed. Plenty of room when lifted :naughty:

 

Couldn't you use this setup to adjust your AirLift Rear Air Bags Kit? I love the engineering in this project.

 

I could but the AirLift system I have is programmable for each individual rear wheel and auto leveling so I'm going to keep that a separate system.:thumbup:

 

Those mounting points on the throats of those bells look like they're there for debris screens.

Nice install James, that horn will sound off real quick with that set-up.