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Off-Road lights

26K views 85 replies 31 participants last post by  hmmbagodden  
#1 ·
Hey all,
Well, since I now have a Bullmaxx :)yup:) installed onto my truck, it is time to get some off-road lights for it.

I've been looking around to get an idea of what there is (I'm green in this department, some of it's a bit overwhelming with choices).

I'm not wanting to spend a fortune, but will put up a little change. I guess, I don't want to spend more than $300. :shrug:

What are some of your suggestions of what's trusted, durable, best deal?
Or what do you all run?

Thanks in advance. :thumbup:
 
#8 ·
^^^^thats what I've got... pretty good stuff for the price.
 
#9 ·
#11 ·
i had hella 500FF. i think the lights were a 6" ligh maybe 1" deep at most. not sure on stud size. but i can go look.

i paid $65 for a pair at walmart. i couldnt argue with that and ive heard the HID upgrade wasnt that bad to do and ddm is pretty cheap in prices. :shrug:


:goestofindpicsoflightsandstudsize:
 
#12 ·
Image






stud size is a 3/8
 
#15 ·
Kragen HIDs. Very good light output for the price. Already come in HID so you dont have to do a conversion. They are around 100 a piece brand new from kragen. Might be able to find a better deal on them used somewhere online. I plan on running Kragens at least for a bit on my truck for the reason that if one breaks or gets destroyed, im not out alot of money to go get another one. Ive heard really good things about them though on other sites
 
#16 · (Edited)
I'm trying to install some KC 130 watters on my new Aries brush guard today. I finally put 2 and 2 together and realized that this is a ground-switched system. Please correct me if i'm wrong but does this mean that I must hook up the KC driving light relay to the (+) on the beam select relay? The (+) to all four headlights is hot anytime the headlights are on -- hence the "ground switched" electrical system.

Is there any easier way of doing this? It looks like it is going to be a PITA to get to the BLK/WHT beam select relay wire. I just want the driving lights to come on automatically when I turn on the high beams.

***EDIT*** I just noticed a thread regarding how one can wire up their Coly-Can to have all the lights turn on if they beam selection relay is pulled and a jumper is installed. Maybe I can just integrate the KC driving light relay to activate via this wire....

***EDIT 2 *** Okay, it looks like this thread here talks about wiring all four headlights without messing with the fogs. That is favorable for me and I also learned something. The wiring diagram here clearly shows that the relay is just activating ground circuits as the headlight beams (+) must be ALWAYS hot when the BCM sends a signal to the headlamp relay (i.e. when the auto-switch or manual switch turns it on, the low AND high have (+) on). THEREFORE I do indeed need to connect my KC driving light relay to the BEAM SEL relay 47 in the underhood fuse block. I must find out what part of the relay is the (+) from the BCM (the A18 BLK/WHT wire) and I will solder this directly to the relay to avoid pulling out the entire fuse block assembly. While I'm there, I'm going to do the four headlight on mod.

Special thanks to this website: http://www.naskie18.com/colorado/schematics/ for wiring diagrams.
 
#18 ·
Add me to the Hella 500FF camp. Something to keep in mind, the 500FF's come in two configurations. They have both driving and fog configs, so make sure it says "driving lamps" on the box. Anyways, great lights! Had them on my car, and transferred them to my truck when I got it. They are a MUST HAVE for me on my mountain road commute. They throw really far, while still illuminating things off to the sides as well. When you first inspect them upon un-boxing, you will get a sense of "oh shit, these things feel cheap!", due to the plastic backs, but trust me, they are plenty sturdy, and will last a long, long time. You can't go wrong with Hella or KC for that matter.
 
#19 ·
i'd say some LEDs like i got:lol:, but those are easy to come by, and are close to 300 each. they're huge tho, so two would fill up the space on the Bullmaxx. i think some smaller lights would look great on those, like CanyonAB has
 
#20 ·
my best tip i can give you is a plastic housing so you dont run into any shorting problems. with these Michigan winters (except this one) with eat right through those metal housing. thats all. enjoy whatever you get and the bar looks good:thumbup:
 
#24 · (Edited)
pretty much. just make sure to include the relay for the extra lights

sample diagram..
Image
 
#26 ·
Its all wired up and the 130w daylighters are very bright. The four-headlight mod (link in my previous post) works great and was VERY easy to do. I'm just glad that I didn't have to play with any of the BCM wires at the BCM as I just opened up Relay 47 itself and tapped into it and connected that wire to the KC relay. I believe 86 on Relay 47 (BEAM SEL) will give you (+) if and only if the high beams are activated (this includes flash-to-pass). Both the (+) wire to activate off road lights and the four-headlight mod can be done on the same relay.

Relay tap example: (member Putter)

Image


The above looks exactly like what I did EXCEPT that you do not have to chop any of the pins off of the relay.
 
#27 ·
Nice tigers, glad u got it to work
 
#28 ·
I've never had an issue with metal housing lights during winters :shrug: my are subjected to mud and road salt with no rust or shorting. I'm running 130w daylighter pencil beams, and kc slimlites fog lights that are also 130w.
 
#33 ·
like that set-up, tigers!
 
#35 ·
I noticed that Whelen makes a few different PAR46 modules. The first types are sold by SirenNet.com and come in three different beam angles (2, 8, and 60). They range from 1600 to 2000 Lumens. They should mount right up with no problem. I believe they have a 5yr warranty. These are intended to replace the police spotlamps commonly found on the A-pillar. I'm sure many members here have witnessed the intensity of such in person. They are sold under the Sirennet.com house brand but are actually made by Whelen.

The second design are Whelen's Aviation line. Under the "Parmetheus" name, they put out several thousand lumens. These are aircraft landing and taxi light replacements. The only bummer is that they cost between $230 and $340 each and only last for about 300hours!

I see that SunSpot makes a 17,000 lumen 8" diameter module for $1600! Now those are some serious modules.

No matter what the lumens are, keep in mind that it comes down to the optics. I opted for the 130watter KC Daylighters because I knew that for $130, it couldn't be beat. The LED's are on their way in quickly but the prices are way to high right now.